First Carry, Day Six
rest day was quite uneventful, which was just how we wanted it.
We relaxed, read, ate well, drank a lot of fluids, and checked
out our gear once again. We would drink on average 4 to 5 liters
of water a day.
was our day to carry to camp 1. It was sunny with just a mild
wind. We each carried about 55 lbs of food and gear up to 16,500
feet, which took about 4 hours. We climbed at a very fast pace
but it was a real test for me. I had to pressure breath pretty
much the whole time. Especially on the last section, 45 degrees
of rock and gravel. At times, I was down to one step for every
stashed our load at camp 1, rested there for 20 minutes and came
back down to base camp to sleep. Climb high and sleep low is the
way to go. Our climbing itinerary was solid, conservative and
though out in every detail. We had planned four rest days during
the climb, and only two summit day attempts. And if we needed,
we could convert a rest day to a summit day, health permitting
of course! That night, I had decided to sleep outside of our tent.
Our little 2-man tent would get claustrophobic at times. The weather
was nice and calm, so it was a great opportunity to “Bivi” in
my sleeping bag at 14,000 feet.