up, Day Eleven
were very fortunate in our timing because yesterdays rest day
fell on bad weather. We woke up to high winds, clouds and eight
inches of fresh snow. We rested comfortably in our tent all day!
we packed the remainder of our gear and moved up to camp 2 at
19,000 feet. Again, the climb went smoothly. In order to minimize
the overall time we would spend at these higher altitudes, we
would immediately do a traverse the following day to our high
camp at 19,500 feet
on the North side of the mountain. This would put us near the
Standard Route. We would attempt the summit, and then be able
to exit the mountain in only two days, via the Standard Route.
advantage of this traverse was that we would be able to make a
quick exit in case of real bad weather or an emergency. And by
saving one day in our descent, we would have an extra summit day
if needed. The elevation gain during this traverse was only 500
feet. The difficulty was that we would carry all our gear with
us in one move instead of two. We carried 60 to 70 lbs. packs
each, with little acclimatizing at 19,500 feet.